Larache is a town in the North of Morocco, next to the Atlantic coast, where the Loukkos river meets the ocean. Much less renowned than other cities in the area, such as Tangier or Assilah, Larache remains quite unknown for foreign tourists, thus keeping most if its authenticity. If you pass by the area and you have some time, we suggest you to stop and have a look! In this article, you will find the best things you can see and do in Larache.
How to get to Larache
The city of Larache is accessible by car or bus. It’s situated right near the A5 highway, so the position is quite convenient. It’s about 90 km south of Tangier, 45 km sout of Assilah and 170 km north of Rabat.
Although the high speed railway Tangier-Kenitra is close to Larache, the town still doesn’t have a train station. Assilah (45 km) and Ksar-el-Kbir (35 km) are the closest stations. And the closest airport is the airport of Tangier, Ibn Battouta.
A little bit of history
The city of Larache has its origins in the old town Lixus, a site located north to the Loukkos river, just 5 km away from the current downton. It is said that Lixus was founded by the phoenicians in the year 1100 BC, although the oldes archaeologial remains only date back to the 7th century BC.
In the year 42 BC, Lixus became a roman city, and it’s under the roman ruling that the city became quite notable, due to the trading with other communities carried out throught its notorious port. In the 4th century AD, Lixus started to decline; in the 7th century it was sacked by the Vandals, and by the 12th century it was probably deserted.
As for Larache, it doesn’t appear in historical documents until the 13th century, and it’s origins are not clear, although it is believed that it may have originated as a small settlement of fishermen and farmers. Since then, the Portuguese established in Larache, then the Spanish, to finally be reconquered by the Muslim, during a time that the city was also a refuge for pirates. English, Duth and Maghrebian pirates lay in wait for Spanish and Portuguese ships crossing the ocean.
The town, that kept suffering attacks, remained in Muslim hands until 1911, when the Spanish Protectorate was established. The protectorate lasted 45 years, and ended in 1956, when the area became part of independent Morocco.
What to see in Larache
Place de la Libération
This square was built between 1914 and 1922 by the Spanish, when Larache belonged to the Spanish protectorate. Once called Plaza de España (Spanish square), it has been now renamed to Place de la Libération, although local people still refer to it using the former name.
The square, that has an eliptical shape, is the main square in Larache and the heart of the city, a place where the most important avenues meet, and where one can access the medina. In fact, it was conceived as a place to link the old town with the newer areas of the city. With many cafés in the vicinity, it is also a good point to stop and observe the local life.
Medina
From the Place de la Libération, one can access the medina of Larache. This one reminds of other medinas in the north of Morocco, with its blue and white bulduings, but it is more deteriorated. These days, it is populated by the most humble inhabitants of Larache, those with more ressources having moved to newer areas. However, it still keeps its particular charm, and it’s worth visiting.
The first thing that appears after crossing the gate of the medina is the Petit Souk, a square surrounded by porticoed buildings that houses a permanent market, and by the Jamaa Kbir mosque. This square is the heart of the medina, and it is the starting point of several alleys that go through the medina in different directions.
To the left, it is possible to reach the ruins of a fortress built in 1578 that received different names throughout history: “the Al-Kabibat fort, initially named as “”Al-Nasr”, “San Antinoio” and “Al-Kabibat”. During the Spanish Protectorate, the provincial hospital operated inside this fortress.
Other points of interest inside the medina are the Anwar mosque next to the Anwar square, Nasriya mosque, the ruins of San José church or the jewish quarter.
The port
The port of Larache is located in the north of the city, on the south bank of the Loukkos river, protected by three man-made structures. If you visit the medina, and you go to the lowest area, you will be able to reach the port.
For centuries, Larache has been a significants port in the area. Portuguese documents show that during the 15th century it was the main port in Morocco, and it is said that, at some point during the 16th century, it was the most important port in the world. During the Spanish Protectorate, the port was used by the German for about 20 years to repair their ships. And nowadays, the port of Larache is the second most important fishing port in the area.
At present, it is no longer possible to enter the port, but one can still observe all the hustle and bustle of it when the ships arrive with fresh fish. And just across the street there are several stands and restaurants where one can enjoy fried or chargrilled fish.
Corniche and Balcón Atlántico
Right next to the port, when moving to the downtown, there is an esplanade that serves as a meeting point for the local people, and a place to stroll and relax during weekends and holidays.
The Boulevard de la corniche is the street that starts at this point and links the port with the downtown, bordering the mouth of the Loukkos river. When the slope starts to increase, a balaustrade appears; this is where Balcón Atlántico (Atlantic Terrace) starts.
The most remarkable part of the Balcón del Atlántico is the area next to the Place de la Libération, at the top of the cliff. This point offers the best view of the ocean, usually full of fishing ships, as well as views of the Al-Kabibat fort, looking to the right, or the cemitery, to the left. In the evenings, the sunsets that can be seen from this spot are just breathtaking.
Spanish city expansion
The Spanish city expansion is the area near the Place de la Libération. Here, we can see several constructions with neo-Arabic aesthetics, built during the 20s of the last century.
Lixus ruins
This archaeological site, located in a hill with spectacular view over the Loukkos estuary, was home to Phoenicians, Cathaginians, Mauritanians and Romans. During these centuries, Lixus was an important trading post, finitially in gold, ivory and slaves, and later in salt, olives, wine and garum.
In the area next to the gate, we find the lower town, with the remains of garum factories. The garum was a fermented fish sauce that was used as a condiment in the cuisines of Phoenicia, Ancient Greece, Rome, Carthage and later Byzantium. If we keep moving, we can see the amphitheatre and baths, sometimes decorated with traces of mosaic flooring. At the top, we can see more of the settlement, including traces of pre-Roman structures.
The beach, Ras R’mel
There are smaller beaches in the north bank of the Loukkos river, near its estuary, but the biggest and most impressive beach of Larache is Ras R’mel, also known as Peligrosa (dangerous). Facing the Atlantic ocean, unprotected from its currents and waves, this beach offers 2.7 km of sand where one can have a walk, when the weather is not enough good, or stay for a sunbathe and go to swim, during the hottest months of the year.
The view of the beach is remarkable, as are the sunsets that can be spotted from this place. But beware, as its nickname says, this beach (as others in the Atlantic coast of Morocco) can be quite dangerous, so please stay safe!